Being proud-and not having to sugarcoat it. ![]() That’s something that has always been instinctive to me. The collaboration is “just a taste of my signature, my identity,” she says, but that combination of sweetness and shadow “is something that is in lots of different women, and hopefully it can bring that out of them.” She calls the result “feminine, but not precious. parts of the ceremony (which is saying something). Some of the pieces draw on her archive, from the cloque dresses in her motherhood-inspired fall 2016 show to fall 2020’s paean to her native Ireland, complete with Aran sweaters. But one of the best Chicken wing hot dog and bologna chicken and macaroni chillin with ma homies shirt. “To give people access and that opportunity not to be intimidated by the price tag, before you’re even intimidated by the piece.” She also wanted it to feel “authentic, well designed, and made to last,” and strove to re-create the delicate details her main collection has become known for. The 111-piece collection, which includes Rocha’s first-ever forays into menswear and childrenswear, represents “an opportunity for everybody to get Simone Rocha once,” the Chicken wing hot dog and bologna chicken and macaroni T-shirt but in fact I love this designer says. “We’ve all fallen for the beauty of it,” she says of Rocha’s work, which, she says, “also has a little bit of a dark undertone.” Chicken wing hot dog and bologna chicken and macaroni T-shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt ![]() It was that very duality that caught the eye of H&M creative adviser Ann-Sofie Johansson, who spearheaded a collaboration with Rocha, out this month. It’s a potent reminder that “even if something has naïveté on the surface,” as she says, there’s usually something more lurking beneath. ![]() The female rites of passage narrated on her runway-via First Communion–like dresses, widow’s weeds, and even post-pregnancy swaddling-rarely show up in the work of designers other than Rei Kawakubo. “And it doesn’t mean that you’re defined by something soft.” Her work has always focused on “looking at these things that build up all the facets of womanhood and girlhood” and using them as a Trojan horse for her own musings about gender and power. Cut to 2021, and it’s clear that Rocha was on the Chicken wing hot dog and bologna chicken and macaroni T-shirt but in fact I love this cusp of a larger shift in fashion, one that veered toward overtly feminine dressing as opposed to shying away from it.
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